Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to explore these tales and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
